This morning we hit the trail for Eisenach shortly after b-fast. This was the home of Johannes Bach and the site of Lutherhouse – a home where Luther lived as a young man. It was turned into a museum about ten years ago.

After walking around a bit, we drove two miles outside of town to Wartburg Castle.

• This is where Luther was taken by Frederick the Wise shortly after his disputation with Eck.
• Because the Emperor sided with the council, Luther had been declared a heretic and could be killed on site.
• This is what had happened a hundred years earlier to ??
• Frederick had anticipated this and demanded guarantees of Luther’s protection if he showed up at Worms. He had received them, but he was not convinced they would be honored, so he Luther kidnapped and taken to safety.
• I believe Frederick asked not to know where he was taken so he could deny knowing what was going on.
• Luther was taken to Wartburg castle, where he spent two years under cover as a knight – Junker Jorge.
• Wartburg castle had been around for several hundred years before Luther stayed there. In recent years, it has been turned into a museum. You get to see where Luther lived, translated the Bible, supposedly threw the ink well at the devil, etc.

Note for future visits: the walkways in and around the castle are steep and the cobblestone is very uneven.

After the castle, we headed to Worms – which is where the disputation with Eck took place. It’s a two-hour drive. In Worms, we visited a large Luther square – where the largest Luther statue in the world presides over the town square.

We also went to Saint Peter’s Cathedral, which was remarkable. It is hard to imagine anyone building anything like this today. Back then these buildings took fifty years to build.

Misc:

• One of the takeaways from this visit, is learning that the artist Cranach the Elder, whose painting of Luther I have in my study, was a very prominent figure. I had no idea.

• A second take-away is that Luther was primarily a Bible translator. A few months after he went into the castle, he published a first translation of the New Testament in modern German. He revised it a few months later. This I knew. What I did not know is that he spent the next 12 years working on the Old Testament (with Melanchthon helping him) and that he kept revising the Bible up until his death. I also did not know that because Melanchthon was much better at Greek than he was, Luther focused most of his time and Biblical study on the Old Testament. He is famous for his commentaries on Romans and Galatians, but most of his time was OT not NT.

• A third take-away is that I really need to think more reformations than reformation. There were lots of people trying to reform the church, and of course the Roman Catholics will launch a counter reformation to combat Luther and his allies.

• Throughout this trip I find myself amazed that I am able to be here. The sidewalks we are walking were built 400 years ago. They often do not meet 21^st century code – often because they are too steep. Had you told me a few years ago that I’d have enough balance to take a trip like this, I do not think I would have believed it. I am very thankful.

Just back from tour of Heidelberg, a beautiful and very international university town of about 150K.

Via Doug Sweeney, I was able to line up a tour with Ryan Hoselton, an American PhD student studying church history at the University of Heidelberg. Ryan was just what we were looking for.

We started in the square that stands over the ruins of the Augustinian monastery that Luther visited six months after he posted his theses. In Heidelberg – which is where the Heidelberg catechism was written – Luther presented this thinking at the once-every-three-year gathering of the Augustinians. (Note: the town square was also the site of a large book burning by the Nazis in 1933).

• He walked there, which likely took close to a month. And which gave him time to think. Instead of the 95 theses, he presented 26 new ones. If you study these lists you see how his thinking was evolving. He was clearer about Justification by faith by this point. He also was emphasizing a theology of the cross (we suffer) versus a theology of glory (we can be good and merit God’s favor

• His defense was initially well received by many of the faculty and students. This would later change.

• At Luther’s request, his defense was held at the university across the street at the university – there is a plaque that marks the spot. Luther insisted on this because he wanted this discussion to be an academic one.

• According to Ryan, Luther appealed to Scripture when debating Catholics and reason when he ended up debating the enthusiasts, Anabaptists and other “radical reformers..

From there we visited a few churches that held significance for various reasons. And then – perhaps the highlight of the trip – was a tour of the castle of Heidelberg. While in town to discuss his theses, Luther was invited to dinner by Count Wolfgang. (He was already becoming a celebrity). The ruins of the castle, which was first built in 1200s, are impressive and apparently important for various reasons.

We got an hour tour, by Ralf Brendal, a dry wit who made a fun tour even better.

I had little appreciation for what goes into a castle before this trip. I will not complain about Christ Church’s maintenance budget again. We not only do not need tens of millions to keep any of the buildings running, we get to save money by not needing gun powder to defend the buildings against the ongoing raids.

After the castle, we had a German lunch before heading back to Mannheim.

According to Ryan:

• Most of Germany operates from the political middle of the four largest parties. The policies of Germany’s middle would line up with our left.
• Germans pay a lot in taxes, but there is not a lot of noise about it. They have a vibrant economy and get perks like free tuition for college.

I have now seen groups of Syrians. According to Ryan:

• Most people were accepting of the refugees, though there was / is some fear because ISIS claims to have some of their own among the refugees;
• It is unclear how many will settle in Germany versus go back once Syria settles down;
• Merkel told Christians to read their Bible and open their homes (her father was a pastor. He said it is unclear where she stands on spiritual matters).
• There is some question as to how many more may get in. Most of those who came were men who are now trying to bring their families, but are being prevented from doing so, which is causing some tension;
• One of the reasons many think Merkel let so many in is because they need workers. Germany has a negative growth rate – more Germans are dying than are being born, and anyone who has more than two kids is considered crazy;
• The pastor of the church his family attends, preached a great sermon on the refugees. He noted that though allowing them in may not have lined up with someone’s politics, and though there is some fear about how things will unfold over time; the call to a Christ follower is to love your neighbor.

We toured Leipzig this AM. This included a museum that showcased several hundred years of local history – including some details about the disputation between Eck and Luther. We then walked to the Old City Hall, which is where the debate actually took place. We finished up Leipzig with a tour of St. Thomas church, where Luther preached and Bach was choir master. The latter’s remains are interned there.

From Leipzig we drove 90 miles to Erfurt, which is a beautiful city. (I was unprepared for Germany to be so nice). There we saw three things

• Cathedral of Saint Mary: This was the most spectacular thing we have seen so far. Both this church – and one right next to it – are Roman Catholic churches, though I suspect they are mostly museums. St. Mary’s is spectacular, and the court yard below them is remarkable as well. This is where Luther said his first mass (or tried to, before panicking and running away).

• The Augustinian Monastery: This is now set up as a study center and museum.

• Erfurt University: This is where Luther did his undergraduate studies. It remains a small university today.

• The Merchant’s Bridge: Built in 1470, this is one of the few bridges that holds homes on it.

Erfurt was remarkable. A beautiful and vibrant European town celebrating a beautiful and vibrant fall day. Hundreds of people walking the cobblestone streets and sitting in outdoor cafes. Musicians playing in the parks. Remarkable.

Misc:

• According to Marshall we walked 17,000 steps today, and that is a lot.

• My time in Germany has not been a particularly spiritual experience. The biggest take away has been how contentious the Reformation was. I find that more than anything, I feel a bit sad.

• Before coming over here, I’d heard reports that Germany was under a fair bit of stress and strain because of the million plus immigrants (mostly Syrian) that Merkel let in. I keep looking for signs of them or of trouble. So far all I see is a country that is working well.

Yesterday we hopped an early train to Wittenberg, which is a mix of 16^th century cobblestone streets and 21^st technology stores.

Luther showed up here as a newly minted PhD to teach theology at the local university. In preparation for his lectures, he turned to the Greek text (not the Latin that he had been using) and realized that he (and others) had radically misunderstood the righteousness of God.

We had perfect weather and there were many things to see:

• Wittenberg University: The university is ongoing, with several of the old buildings operating as museums.

• The Castle Church: This is where Luther posted his 95 theses (The castle door was sort of the town bulletin board / web site). He wrote in Latin, not intending to attract much attention. His goal was to spark conversation about the sale of indulgences among church leaders. As a pastor (as well as professor), he was troubled by the sale of indulgences and the effect it was having on his people. He wrongly imagined that the Pope would be troubled as well if he knew what was going on. He posted the theses hoping to organize a discussion, only to have: 1) them translated into German; 2) reprinted using the new printing press; 3) start a storm of discussion all over the country.

• The Door: The Door itself is long gone. This door – in place of where the original was – has the 95 these on them. This picture makes it hard to tell that. But the door is metal and they are formed into it.

• Saint Mary’s Church: Luther preached many sermons at this two steepled church and is buried under the pulpit. While we there they held an organ recital, featuring a jazz rendition of A Mighty Fortress is our God. The sanctuary was quite full. All I can say is, we tried. But after ten minutes we slipped away.

• The Home of Luther: In an effort to keep Luther on the faculty (he became quite a celebrity), Frederick the Wise had a home built for him. It was much larger than I would have guessed. Along with their children, Martin and Katie Luther had as many as 15 people living there. You get to see his study and place where Table Talks were held.

• The Home of Melanchthon: Right next door was a home for Philipp Melanchthon, Luther’s lieutenant and the author of the Augsburg Confession. He was a brilliant academic who Frederick also wanted to keep at Wittenberg.

We left W for a two-hour autobahn trip to Leipzig. That meant we left small and historic for much newer and much bigger.

I took a run through the park before dinner. And as I approached the hotel I saw 17 police vans lined up in front of it. Given the fact that many of the places Marshall and I have visited (e.g. Egypt, Greece, Belarus) have all fallen into chaos shortly after we left, I suspected that Marshall was working his wonders yet again and Germany was headed for some sort of coup. No. Across the street was a rally for the town soccer team. The crowd was loud and, from what I could tell, they’d started drinking some time ago. The police were there to be sure things did not get ugly. They didn’t.

I left Sunday shortly after church and arrived in Berlin – via Frankfurt – on Monday AM. I meet Marshall at the airport, and we made for our downtown hotel. I took a short run to avoid a long nap, then we did a walking (and boat) tour of Berlin. It’s quite a city. Highlights included:

Checkpoint Charlie: Where East and West used to meet. It’s a gimmicky tourist site now – you can get your picture taken with some “guards” or have your passport stamped for a fee. I remember it from various pictures and movies. I am struck by how much I feared East Germany and the Soviet Empire years ago. Actually I am embarrassed. It turned out to be so fragile and it fell so quickly. But I remember real fear of “the communists.” Three cheers for RR for realizing that the Emperor had not clothes.

The Wall: At several places they have remnants of the wall that remain standing. It is about 10 feet high and crumbing. When I compare it with the wall Israel has up along the West Bank – 30’ high, sleek, sheer, topped with cameras and barbed wire – there is no comparison.

The Reichstag: I believe this is German equivalent of Congress.

The Brandenburg Gate: This neoclassical monument from ???? that has quite a history: Hitler and the Nazis showcased it; it then become a symbol of the divided city; it was hear that RR said, “Mr. Gorbachov – tear down this wall!”.

The Berlin Cathedral. We saw this from the boat tour – impressive! And as someone who has worked to raise money for church buildings in the past (and in the future), extravagant.

A Jewish Memorial: When you kill 6M Jews, you need some monuments. This one is large. Several hundred cement blocks of various sizes. No sure what to make of it.

Misc:

• We had intended to visit the Pergamum Museum to see the Ishtar Gate, which is what Daniel and his three friends saw when they were marched into Bablyon several thousand years ago. German archeologists excavated it in late 19^th century, moved what they could to Germany in the early 20^th century and rebuilt it there. (This is a source of some international tension today. But it’s not like we (the US) have any grounds to point fingers. The Oriental Museum in Chicago has many similar items.)

• I hear the gate is very impressive. It was designed to humiliate / sober anyone who walked past it. I was looking forward to getting some idea of what Daniel, Shadrach, Meshak and Abendigo had seen when they were taken as captives. Alas, the Pergamum is closed on Mondays.

• We walked past the opera house around 9 PM and there was a violinist out front playing. It was dark, the building was dimly lit. The music was beautiful. The weather was perfect. It was a timeless moment.

• Random Fact: There are more water ways in Berlin than in Venice and Amsterdam combined. Who knew.

• As I noted above, Berlin has always seemed a bit mysterious and dangerous to me. I think I got that impression from the film clips from the ’36 Olympics and various spy movies. I am ashamed of the fear I harbored when it’s now clear that: 1) there was so little there; 2) what was needed was for good people to stand up against it. It leaves me wondering how to think about today’s danger areas – ISIS, North Korea, cyber terrorists – etc. My sense is: fear God and smaller fears will fall away.

• After walking around an area formerly dominated by the Nazis, I pulled up the news and read an article in today’s paper noting that the governor of Florida has declared a state of emergency in light of a speech to be given by a white nationalist. Apparently, the Nazis were not shut down, just moved from Berlin to Tallahassee.